Sunday, April 7, 2013

How an American Discovers Mallorca

While living in Prague, I found a job with a small, private school in the southern German town of Goeppingen.  I had found the job posting on a website for English teachers that I had heard about from other teachers who were teaching English in Europe.  I had gotten a call on my cell phone within an hour of submitting my resume.  Little did I know, this was going to be the most unforgettable job of my life.

I had a good conversation on the phone with Chuck, the director, or so I thought, and the owner of the school whose name was Karin.  Chuck was direct and to the point, but sounded to have a good sense of humor.  Karin was the owner of the school and from a small town in Austria.  She seemed like a nice lady and was offered the job after about a 45 minute conversation.  I had bought a Eurail pass with 5 round trip trips that I had yet to use.  They wanted me to start as soon as possible and decided to go check out the school within the next few days. 

I was excited to start my job as an English teacher.  I called a few of my American friends to tell them the news.  I was supposed to head out the following day.  My friends, Joe and Joe, Corin and Joshua insisted on having a few beers to send me off.  I still hadn’t packed yet but thought I could do it later.  I had already had a reservation for the train for an early morning 6:30 departure.  We went out to our favorite pub for dinner and a few beers.  A few beers lead to several more beers until late in the evening.  Before I knew it, it was around 1 a.m. and I still had to go back to the apartment to pack for my trip. 

I woke up with enough time to spare.  I had to roll my suitcase to the main train station which was a good 25 minute walk.  I was still feeling the beers from the night before and never really got any sleep.  I was also struggling with some sort of stomach virus at the time which had been hanging around for the past few days.  It was one of those stomach bugs where you didn’t want to turn any corners too quickly if you know what I mean.  I had an 11 hour train ride ahead of me and was overcome at time by a cold sweat and a churning stomach the entire trip.  Not to mention the dehydration from the beer and lack of sleep. 

I arrived at Goeppingen Hauptbahnhof  around 5:30 p.m. and was met by Chuck, the school director.  He was older than what I pictured.  He appeared to be in his late forties with a flat top.  His hair was gray and looked more like he was in the Army.  He seemed friendly and my first impression was that he may not be too bad to work for.  Karin was with him.  She was quite a bit younger, about mid thirties with long blond hair and on the stout side.  I thought it must be all the German meat and potatoes.  She had a friendly glow and more of a motherly side to her.  Chuck and Karin were a ‘couple’ which was clear to see.  Chuck obviously had an upper hand in the relationship.  That was apparent from some of the jokes he made with Karin.  It maybe was just his military/conservative appearance. 
We went straight to the apartment where I was to live.  That was included in my salary of 14 German Marks per class hour taught.  I had no idea if that was good or bad since I didn’t know what the cost of living was like.  My measure of salary was, how many beers does it buy?  I had a fully furnished apartment that I would share with one other teacher and one other teacher to be hired as soon as they found someone.  I got a quick tour of the apartment which had everything I needed.  Two bedrooms in the apartment and a third bedroom separate upstairs from the apartment.  Chuck said, drop your bags and head on across the street for class.  He wanted me to sit in on his classes and be introduced to the students.  I was thinking, it would be nice just to stretch my legs a bit and unpack.  But I had to head over in 10 minutes.  My stomach was still rumbling and the sweat flashes were still there.  I was still going on about 3 hours of sleep that I managed on the train.  I was dead tired and not quite sure if my stomach was going to be ok, but I pulled myself together and headed over.

When I got over to the school, which was slightly less than 10 minutes before the start of the first class, I was informed that I was late according to Chuck.  Now I thought to myself, is this guy serious or is he joking.  I was really too tired to give it much thought.  I was given a quick run-down on the classes that were scheduled for the evening.  There were 5 classes that lasted 45 minutes.  All were small groups of less than 10 per class and were mainly conversational.  The former owner had written the textbook that went from beginner level all the way up through advanced.   Chuck was going to lead the class discussion, except tonight he was going to introduce me and let me talk about who I was and where I was from.  This was a bit more than I expected.  I was hoping for more of just a short hello and then kick back and watch.  I just had an 11 hour train ride, not to mention a night out on the town in Prague with my friends.  My stomach was still feeling the effects of the stomach bug.  I wasn’t sure if I would need to make an emergency exit at some point in the evening.

The first class came in.  It was a group of about 6 or so mid level students.  I said hello to the students as they walked in.  My first impression was that they were a little apprehensive and not really too friendly.  Chuck started the class with a goofy joke to break the ice as I sat there with all eyes on the two of us.  My initial few weeks were still in the trial phase.  It was agreed upon that I would get paid, but still be considered to be temporary until I was officially offered the job.  So out of the gate, I felt Chuck watching every move that I made and was judging every response in the classroom.  Chuck made his introduction and then it was my turn to give myself presentation, where I was from, what I did in the U.S. and how I just travelled from Prague.  It was funny how every class that I told I just came from Prague, I had a blank stare from all the students.  It was always a short delay until they said, ah Prague.  Like I totally butchered the pronounciation.  That would also happen whenever I said this in German as well.  Somehow, they couldn’t understand my accent.  Now that I think about it, for years later living in Europe when I would speak German and say where I was from, the same delay would come after I said Amerika, in German…it was ah Amerika.  This was about 90 percent of the time.  They would often say, huh? Australia?  I would respond, no Amerika.  Then, ah Amerika.  Isn’t that what I just said?  I would think to myself.   I think the other 10 percent of the time, they just didn’t feel like confirming what I had just said.
It was one class after another with a 10 minute break in between each class.  Always the same routine, who is this guy expression from the students as they walked in, by brief introduction from Chuck and then it was my brief history and questions from the students afterwards.  The classes were a mix of bored housewives looking to get out of the house for the evening to the business professional looking to advance their career with better English.  I could already see that the Germans were a bit reserved and hard to get them to open up.  There were a few students who enjoyed the conversation which is who I tended to focus on to avoid the uncomfortable silence.  Overall, I could tell this was going to be a fun job since I love talking with people and learning about what they do and where they are from.  I found this
to be the best way to learn about the culture, what to do see and what food to eat.  Nothing I could imagine would be a better way to dive into the local culture than to work as an English teacher.

After going through 5 classes of the same routine, I was ready to call it a night and head to bed.  I was invited by Chuck and Karin to meet them at a nearby restaurant to discuss how things went.  As tired as I was, I couldn’t say no to good food and talking about the evening.  We went to a nearby Lokal, or small, family run restaurant/pub.  I ordered some schweinefleisch and spaetzle from the recommendation of Chuck and Karin, along with a half liter of the local hefeweizen.  I soon realized that the German hefeweizen was much stronger than the beer I was accustomed to in Prague and could quickly feel a buzz coming on from my first half of a glass.  We sat and talked about the students and class structure and my feedback as to what I thought went well and didn’t go well.  We talked also about my background and where I was from.  They said I would be living with Chris, who was the senior teacher at the school who was from England.  They exchanged glances upon mentioning his name with a bit of laugh.  I was already thinking, what is this all about?  I would soon find out for myself.

 I felt more of a sense of a family, nurturing feel from my new bosses.  They seemed nice and caring and thought this seemed like a good fit.  I felt I was on my way to fulfilling my dream of living and working in Germany.  All I had to do is be myself, work hard and prove to Chuck and Karin that I was a good fit for the job.  

It was getting close to midnight and already through my third beer when we decided to call it a night.  It was Friday and I was looking forward to sleeping in.  To my surprise, Chuck insisted on a 8:30 meeting at the school to discuss teaching material and class organization for the upcoming week.  Not wanting to look bad, I eagerly agreed to meet them bright and early over at the school.  My real thoughts were, shit I am tired and would much rather get caught up on some sleep and unpack.

To no surprise, I was too tired to fall asleep.  It may sound strange, but I can never sleep right away when I am overly exhausted or in a strange place.  I got up early enough to shower but had nothing to eat but a protein bar, banana and some water that I had brought along on my trip.  I was still tired but wanted to look upbeat for my early morning meeting.  When I arrived, I was about 5 minutes early since it was a short walk from across the street.  I was greeted by Chuck and Karin with how did you sleep?  Then, Chuck commented on ‘if you are on time, you are late.’  I thought to myself, don’t look irritated, smile and keep your mouth shut.  I really wasn’t sure if I should jokingly say something back or say nothing at all.  I chose to keep my mouth shut.

We went over the class structure like who was in each class, what level they were, what they liked and disliked.  The school had around 250 students Monday through Saturday.  We went over teaching material available for the next couple of hours.  The material included flash cards, games and books on conversational topics and the like.  I was also told there are a couple of private students that I would take over for Saturdays and that they would be there shortly.  Now at this point, I am starving with no apparent break for breakfast or lunch on the schedule.  There were two students back to back.  One was a manager at a local business and the other was a 13 year old boy who was struggling with his English lessons in school.
The classes went smoothly, more of the same old routine.   Just a brief intro and an awkward time trying to have a conversation with someone who would prefer not to talk. 
The classes finally ended around 1 p.m. and I was still feeling the effects of my long trip.  I was starving and needed to go to the store to get something to eat and stock up for the next few days.  I had to interrupt Chuck and Karin to say that I needed to do some shopping and cut away.  Chuck told me that I had better hurry because the stores on Saturday in Germany all close at 2 p.m.   He said all stores are closed on Sunday too.  I felt a sort of panic rush through my stomach.  I didn’t want to eat 3 meals a day on Sunday at a restaurant and had to get to the store before it closed.  Luckily, a grocery store was about 3 blocks away from my apartment.  I set out for my first visit in a German grocery store.  My first impression was that everything was so much smaller.  The parking lot was only large enough for maybe two dozen cars and inside the store, the isles were all much narrower.  It kind of made me feel a little claustrophobic.  I looked to grab the basics to get me by.  Water, yogurt, bread and lunch meat.  I was just mainly trying to stock up on basic sandwich stuff for now until I could get more settled.  I felt a bit stressed since the clock was ticking and I knew they were getting close to closing.  You could feel the same tension with the Germans who were shopping in the store as well.  They all seem to act as if other people weren’t there.  I noticed they acted as if I were invisible and would run me over if I didn’t get out of their way.  The same went for the line at the check- out when one woman apparently didn’t see me and cut in line in front of me.  I had given the person in front of me a reasonable distance and the other women just squeezed her way in between.  I thought, she really must be in a hurry and didn’t say anything.  She acted as if I wasn’t even there.
I got back to the apartment and finally met Chris.  He was a short, round man in his late forties with slicked back medium length snow white hair with a goatee.  He had a healthy red glow to his cheeks and smelled a little like booze from the night before, or was it from this morning?  I wasn’t sure.  He introduced himself and said welcome to the English School and just make yourself at home in a thick British accent.  He seemed like a nice, warm hearted guy and looked a bit like Santa Claus.  Right away, I felt that I could get along with the guy.  We talked for a while about where we were from .  He had been there teaching in Germany for over a year now and didn’t mind the job.  However, I sensed there was something he wasn’t telling me about the owners of the school.
This was the first time I was able to see the apartment in daylight.  It was in a quiet neighborhood directly across the street from the school.  It was an upstairs 3 bedroom apartment, directly above the apartment from Chuck and Karin.  I was an older building with wooden, crickety staircase.   As I walked in to the building, I had to pass by Chuck and Karin’s front door to their living room.  Above their door, there was a clear glass window, which they I am sure could see me walking up the stairs to my apartment.  The stairs made such a loud squeek and the echo in the hallway was easily heard in their apartment.  My apartment was small, but comfortable.  There was a separate living room with dining table, couch and t.v.  The kitchen had a small breakfast table, old gas stove and small refridgerator.  We had all the pots, pans and dishes that we needed to cook, but no dishwasher.  The bathroom was small, with a hanging 50 gallon water heater/tank.  My bedroom had a double sized bed with fluffy down

comforter and big fluffy goose feather pillow.  There was a large, separate standing closet that was plenty big enough for my two suitcases and my clothes.  I had a large window that faced the school and I could see the main cross street from my bedroom window.  There was nothing going on out on the street.  A car would pass by occasionally, but nothing like the city life of what I had in Prague.  This was as quiet and peaceful as it gets.

By this time, Chuck had knocked once on the front door and came waltzing in to the apartment.  He asked if I found the store alright and wanted to go over some important things about the apartment.  He walked straight into my bedroom to explain the radiator.  He said it was an energy efficient radiator and never to adjust the settings.  He walked into the bathroom and gave me the same advice on the water heater in the bathroom.  I only heated the water for about 4 hours in the middle of the night.  Once that hot water was gone, you were shit out of luck.  You would have to take a cold shower if the warm water was gone.  Once again, he said, don’t adjust the settings.  He even explained the remote for the t.v.  I really thought this was all pretty self explanatory, but let him talk.  He said dinner was going to be at 6 and that we would be going out afterwards.  He extended the same invitation to Chris, but he said he had already made plans for the evening.  By now it was close to 4 p.m. and I had a few hours to sit down and take in my new surroundings.

 At about 10 minutes to 6, I walked downstairs to Chuck and Karin’s apartment not to be late according to Chuck’s standards.  Karin had made spaghetti for dinner.  It was nice to have a home cooked meal instead of eating out in a restaurant on any given day.  Karin mentioned she was glad they had found me and was eager to mold me into a great teacher.  We had a nice dinner and good conversation.  We talked about how Karin recently purchased the school from Allen, who was a British born man who founded the school some 20 years ago.  He was still working as a teacher at the school part time and still had some say as to how the school was run and who they hired.  I would be joining him in some of his classes in the coming week to observe his teaching style.  We finished dinner after a few hours and Chuck decided he and I should go out for a night out on the town in Goepingen to show me some of the local pubs.  Since I didn’t know my way around or have anyone to hang out with I thought it may be fun.
Chuck and I started out at a hard rock pub called Treffpunkt.  It was a bit more of a biker, heavy metal bar where they played the likes of Iron Maiden, AC DC and the like.  We sat at the bar enjoying some of the local beers.  I learned Chuck was raised the son of an Army colonel and had moved around quite a bit as a kid.  He still had the military flat top.  He seemed to me as if he came from money and was a bit on the spoiled side.  He seemed a bit demanding of his girlfriend Karin and seemed intent of always getting his way from the short time I knew him.  He mentioned that he was from Texas where he spent the larger part of his time when he was in the U.S.   He and Karin had met in Germany and decided to move for a while to England, where they both studied to get their teaching certification or TEFL as it is better known as.  About five beers into the evening, Chuck asked out of the blue if I smoked pot.   It was as if he wanted to get me a little drunk to see if he could get me to volunteer  any personal information out of me.  I still felt as if he was watching and judging my every move.  We talked more about Chris, who had a bit of a drinking dependency.  He expressed that they weren’t too happy with his drinking before classes and were looking to let him go.  Chuck even asked me my thoughts on Chris and asked if I had seen him drinking in the apartment.  Of course, I said nothing not to get the guy in any more
trouble.  Not that drinking in his spare time was a bad thing, I just started to get the feeling that there were some house rules that we were to live by as long as we lived in the apartment they gave us as part of the compensation package.

 

The following Monday I was to sit in on all the classes throughout the evenings to be introduced to the rest of the students.  All the classes went the same, more introductions and Chuck’s lame jokes throughout the class.  I almost felt as if he wanted us to be a couple of comedians.  Kind of like a modern day Dean Martin and Jerry Lewis.  I hated sitting there and couldn’t wait to have the class to myself without him watching over me.

After each class, it was more of the same feedback session with Chuck and Karen.  What went well and what could have been better. Karin said she was going to split up the classes that Chuck had been teaching with me.  I was to get about 30 teaching hours a week.  I was also going to go to teach off site 2 days a week on Tuesdays and Thursdays at the Berufs Bildungs Gemeinschaft or referred to as the B.B.G.  This was a state sponsored school to train women to learn valuable skills to get them a job and off welfare.  The women were all welfare recipients and were somewhat difficult.  Chuck and Karin cautioned me that this was not going to be an easy task.  Classes were about twenty women each class aged from 20 to 40 years of age.  They mentioned that they were somewhat difficult and had already gone through a few other teachers who didn’t last.  They weren’t to motivated and for lack of better words, a group of bitchy women who would eat me alive if I let them walk over me.  I was not too excited about started off with such a rough group.  I was a bit nervous and didn’t feel comfortable knowing that I was going to be teaching such a large group of hostile women.  Karin met with me during some down time during the morning on Monday before my first class.  She showed me the notes of what she had been going over and handed me the text books.  She was going to drop me off Tuesday morning around 8 a.m. and let me wing it.  Talk about being scared. 

I don’t think I got more than 3 hours of sleep Monday night before my first big day at the B.B.G.  That morning, I could hardly eat anything.  I met Karin downstairs and we headed on over to.  It was to be 4 classes each of 45 minutes per lesson.

It was about a 10 minute drive over to the B.B.G. and my stomach was in knots and I could feel myself already starting to sweat.  I was wearing a sweater since it was a cold day and also, not to show any sweat rings on my first day of class.  I was a nervous wreck.  Karin went over a few more things about the class.  She said one thing that caught me off guard a bit.  She said that the women aren’t worth my time outside of the classroom.  They all have emotional hang-ups of one sort or the other and that I should not consider any relationship outside the classroom with any of them.  I wasn’t sure if she was trying to give me some sound advice or if maybe she was a little on the jealous side.  I had thought from the beginning that maybe she was a bit on the flirtatious side, but I really wasn’t interested even if she were single.

We arrived at the school and Karin wanted to introduce me to the administrative staff and also offered to introduce me to the class before taking off.  It was nice to at least not have her watching me like a hawk in the classroom, unlike Chuck.

We walked into the classroom and I felt a knot in my throat once all 20 pairs of eyes were glaring at me.  It didn’t seem to be like a very upbeat class.  I quickly scanned the room and saw a diverse group from early twenties to early forties.  The older women I noticed all seemed to have the same hair style.  It was short, over the ears, somewhat spiked hairdo.  It reminded me of the hair style Mr. Spock on Star Trek wore, except they had a bit more of a spike to it.  The hair color some of them had was a fiery red or burgundy.  The glasses they wore were the small, Benjamin Franklin style which seemed to be the in style.  There were some attractive younger girls in the classroom, but they all had the same cold hard look.  None of them struck me as anyone I would want to meet and have a friendly chat with.  Karin didn’t need to worry about me hooking up with any of these ladies.  They all seemed so plain looking and lifeless.  So there I was, under the spotlight.  Karin gave me a smile as to say good luck and left.
My lesson plan was pretty simple.  I wanted to do tell about my background and go around the room and have each student tell a little about themselves and why they wanted to learn English.  I estimated this would take the bulk of the 3 hour session and I would be an easy day.  I went first, talking about Oregon and my time in Prague.  When I said now it’s your turn, I heard a grumbling throughout the class.  One of the older students with spiked burgundy hair said, ‘we did this for the last teacher and we are not going to do this again.’  There was a general agreement from the faces of the rest of the students.  They said, we will tell your our names, age and status.  So, around the class they went, one at a time.  I could feel my heart starting to beat a little faster and the temperature in the classroom rise.  I thought , this is not going as planned, what do I do now?  So one by one, they said their name age and marital status and then on to the next.  This took up about 10 minutes, if that.  When the last girl finished I had another 2 hours and forty five minutes to kill and nothing planned.  Just me sitting there with the clock slowly ticking.  You could hear a pin drop.  I sat and squirmed at my desk a bit with all eyes on me, thinking this job isn’t for me.  I could feel the sweat bead up on my forehead.  Luckily I had worn a sweater to hide how much I had actually been sweating underneath.  I was sweating as if I just ran a marathon.  I sat there for what seemed to be an eternity, with nothing to say.  Suddenly, through the glass window to the hallway, I saw a girl in a thick navy blue ski jacket slowly wandering towards the door of the classroom.  She opened the door and said ‘hi, sorry I’m a little late.’  She kind of laughed and made her way to her desk.  That was actually the first time I had seen a German girl smile, or even laugh for that matter.  She asked the group what we were doing.  She could obviously feel the tension in the air.  Someone in the back said in German that we were doing the same old introduction crap.  She introduced herself and started telling me about where she lived.  Her name was Sandra and obviously didn’t give a crap what the other’s thought of her.  She was dressed in farmer’s overalls and with her ski jacket, looked like she was ready for the North Pole.  I noticed a diamond stud in her nose and jet black dyed long hair.  She was an average looking girl, but had a carefree glow about her.  She asked me where I was from , so  I gave my story once again, not caring about the fact I had already done so.  I was desperate to kill any time that I could.  By this time I had calmed down some and asked the class what had been done with the other teacher.  Another girl spoke up and started giving me the run down.  I
could see other girls rolling their eyes in disgust.  It was clear there was some animosity among the students.  I decided to ignore the majority of the class who wanted nothing to do with me and focus on the two students who were interested in a conversation.  I just wanted to kill time and get the hell out of there.

I never thought I would make it the whole session, the thought of walking out the door that first twenty minutes almost became reality.  I seriously was ready to throw in the towel on the teaching idea and my dream of working in Germany.  As the students were walking out the door, Sandra was hanging back.  She came up to my desk and asked what else I had seen so far of Europe.  She asked if I had ever been to Mallorca.  I said, no, I had never heard of it.  Where is it?  She said it was a Spanish island in the Mediterranean and had lived there for 6 years.  She said it was a beautiful place where it was always sunny and warm.  She said she used to surf and did some scuba diving there and that she thought I would love it there and check it out sometime.  She smiled as she dropped a piece of paper on my desk and quickly made her way out the door.

Little did I know, that calling that number would take my life into an entirely different direction and turn into a roller coaster ride of an experience to come.  Within two months, I was on a plane heading to this little Spanish island called Mallorca.  I had no idea where it actually was or what to expect.  The experience I was about to have would change my life forever.


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